This is a far from comprehensive guide to what I do, I sometimes undertake odd car repair , tractor repairs for the neighbouring farmers, chainsaw/ generator repairs and much ,much more!

 

Here are some of the things  that I do, if it's not listed on here, please contact me, if I can't undertake the job I usually know someone who can.

 

 

 

 

THIS PAGE IS BEING UPDATED AND AS SUCH IS A "WORK IN PROGRESS"  I WILL ADD MORE CONTENT AS THE PICTURE OPPORTUNITIES  ARISE AND TIME ALLOW, I HOPE YOU ENJOY READING IT.

 

 

 

 

 I  can tackle most types of repairs on aluminium, stainless and mild steel. I also do a lot of repairs for the motor trade on repairing manifolds that contain catalytic converters, saving their customers a lot of money, I can usually tackle repairs like this on a "while you wait" basis. I take on a lot of repairs that other places won't undertake. The problem I've found in the past is that welding shops don't like doing the cosmetic dressing on the welds as they can be very time consuming, this causes the customer lots of problems trying to find someone that will do this for them, also the other problem is that if there is any air bubbles or inclusions in the weld or further  remedial work to be done it means a trip back to the welders, then back to whoever is dressing it up afterwards, by doing all this "in house" I have complete control of the job. The welding is usually the easiest part of the repair and the dressing up of the weld is the most time consuming part of the job facilitating the use of special grinders, sanders, saws and die grinders, here are a few examples of the type of work I undertake and the end product

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Helicoil thread inserts in metric & imperial, including cycle thread and spark plug holes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 From a small Japanese crank, through to large cranks such as Harley Davidsons, I can even do the new interference fit type Harley Cranks (unfortunately they don't do any crank pins for these yet, but I can usually make one good one from  from one that maybe has a damaged shaft) I can also recondition your con rod and supply superior quality bearings. I also do the new one piece style bearings for British singles, replacing the original side by side  bearings that were standard fitment. Using these bearings, it reduces the possibility of the bearings from slewing on the crank pin, thus increasing its longivety also it increases the bearing surface are as there does not need to be as a big a clearance between them to allow for expansion. I have supplied and fitted these bearings for some years now and so far have only had good reports even on high mileage and hard used machines.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  No need to dismantle to assess bore condition! This is useful for a very quick assessment of any job as long as the camera  can be placed within  the area of the components needing checking, thus saving time on the diagnosis and consequently this saving is passed on to you. the camera itself is approximately 9mm in diameter, so it can pass even into a 10mm spark plug hole, it's resolution is that good that you can even read the stamping on the tops of the pistons! The images can be uploaded onto a laptop and emailed to the customer. It comes with a mirror to enable it to look upwards to the valve pocket, there is also a recovery magnet to go on the end to use if you drop anything where you shouldn't!!!  This is one of the new types that you can record video and still images allowing me to email the information directly to you to illustrate any problems that I come across.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Used in conjunction with the camera above, I can quickly test the compressions on your cylinders  and give a full assessment of your engines top end  and advise you on the best option for repair. It works with 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 18mm plug holes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once upon a time, armature testers were a common feature in every garage, but as components became cheaper they were usually phased out and resigned to the scrapheap, so consequently they are quite expensive and hard and  to come by now, indeed, this particular one I use came all the way from Canada! They are useful for testing the armature for electrical shorts and breakdowns in the insulation. The dynamo and starter motor are quite misunderstood by most people, and are sometimes discarded for a new component when in reality there is very little up with them, I find that most of the dynamo armatures I test that are suspected of being faulty are in fact in serviceable condition, in reality  most of them only need new carbon brushes or a quick skim on the commutator and undercutting the mica insulation. A ten minute test will possibly save you up to £100 on a new armature!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For modern engine management systems or fuel injection systems I use this type of equipment, this enables me to quickly read trouble codes, monitor engine sensors, test coils and do live readings to see what happens to a component prior to a fault showing up, especially useful if the fault is intermittent. I can use this on most modern motorcycles, from Harleys to Yamahas It is equipped with most of the leads to cover nearly all models and is updateable to cover newer systems and new models

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For valve seat grinding I use the Peg 10 model  which utilises an eccentic pilot mounting ensuring the stone keeps it profile longer and therefore the seat angle is maintained throughout its grinding process meaning that it is more accurate. The other advantage in using the peg 10 is that it is more controllable than the Kwik way and Black and Decker machines in that I can control the amount of material removed by adjusting the cut on the knurled knob at the top of the machine, also it is nearly as quick to use. I used to use the Serdi Micro machine, which was an excellent machine, in that I could cut the 3 angles at once, but it was very time consuming to set up  and each of the very expensive cutters was "model specific" meaning that for each model of bike I used it on, I had to buy different cutters at approximately £90 each due to the wide variations in valve the seat area between a multi valved, multi cylinder machine and a large capacity single. I find that the Peg 10 is a good compromise  between accuracy and the amount of time spent setting up the machine.

 

 

 

 

 

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